Pulpology: Mark & Sonia's Intercontinental Absurdities!

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23 October 2009
Photo Friday: magical San Marino

a San Marino pre-Halloween moment
a San Marino pre-Halloween moment

While I continue to organize photos and fill in blog entries, I wanted to put out a few teaser pics from our magical evening in San Marino. And what better occasion than Photo Friday? These photos don't even begin to capture the beautiful scenery and gorgeous sunset we encountered in this independent republic ensconced within Le Marche. More to come...

golden hour at the top of the world
golden hour at the top of the world

don't look down!
don't look down!

a billion steps up and down
a billion steps up and down

another gorgeous Italian sunset!
another gorgeous Italian sunset!

For more great Photo Friday pics, check out Delicious Baby!

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Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 2 comments

16 October 2009
Back to reality

oktapodi is glad to be home, not so glad to be sorting through junk mail
oktapodi is glad to be home, but not-so-glad to be sorting through a mountain of junk mail

After a lonnnnnng drive to Rome, followed by a short night's sleep and then a long flight, an irritating layover in JFK, and then another hour drive to our house, we were pretty ready to be home. We arrived back to find the usual metric ton of mail, plus the unexpected surprise of no heat! Nice. Still, it's good to be in our own bed again. We have much catching up to do after being so delinquent on blog and photo entries for most of this trip. (Gotta admit, that hard drive failure really took the wind out of my sails.) But, rest assured, we are up to the task! Expect to see many more stories and pics from our astoundingly fabulous -- and occasionally fraught-with-peril -- monthlong jaunt through central Italy. Thanks for your patience, faithful readers. And thanks, as always, for playing along at home!

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments

11 October 2009
Perugia: full of surprises!

[Hey, check it out! This post was written mostly by Mark.]

Even before we'd made any concrete plans to travel to Italy, Mark's uncle, Rob, had been extolling the virtues of Umbria and Perugia, who had been there many times himself to visit his wife Sanda’s family. He encouraged us to visit some distant relatives and all but guaranteed an amazing time. Not that Umbria is much of a hard sell, and we're always big fans of visiting with locals, no matter where we go. He put us in touch with someone named Paolo, although the relationship seemed rather distant. I’d contacted him a few times by email and Skype, and each time the answer was something to the effect of "sure, let's meet if you make it to Italy." Which was a reasonable response, since those conversations took place while the trip itinerary was still very speculative.

ahhhhhh, Umbria!
ahhhhhh, Umbria!

So the day finally arrived. And, honestly, we had almost no idea what to expect. We had plans to get together on a Sunday morning for brunch, but weren't sure how much the language barrier might limit our interactions. Perugia, by all accounts, was a great town to visit. Failing all else, we could certainly find our way around to see some sights, perhaps take in a festival or two if our timing was right, or else find a nice little osteria to nosh at.

Paolo's mom's houseWith the help of a borrowed GPS, we arrived at Paolo's house at the appointed time, still somewhat uncertain how the day would unfold. We rang the buzzer at the gate and we let in by a kindly older woman who turned out to be Paolo's mama and who spoke surprisingly good English. She led us into the house, up a spiral staircase reminiscent of those we’d recently climbed in various castles, and on into a parlor filled with fine Italian furniture. We realized that this was her house. She sat us down, served coffee, explained how we were all distantly related (Paolo's father being my Aunt Sanda's uncle) and even showed us an photo of Uncle Rob from one of his visits to the house in what must have been the '70s. Fun stuff! But, ehm, where's Paolo?

Francesca, queen of the realm (and Luna the pooch)After some conversation, a firecracker of a five-year-old sparked into the room. We were introduced to Francesca, Paolo's adorable daughter. She immediately began babbling to us excitedly in Italian, arms flying (despite one limb in a cast), hair flipping. A Sophia Loren in training, to be sure. When we tried explaining to her, apologetically, that we only speak a little Italian, she rolled her eyes theatrically, waved away our ignorance with a gesture, and continued her brisk monologue unfazed. She showed us her school books, a drawing of her dog “Luna,” and a neon pink Barbie-like electronic toy. Good times! But where's Paolo?

Eventually a somewhat harried-looking Paolo showed up, sat down and briefly explained that he only knew a little bit of English, before he was distracted away by some Francesca-fueled commotion on another floor of the house. So we sat in the parlor getting to know Paolo's mother a little better with a combination of our first grade Italian and her more skillful English. Sonia & I were becoming vaguely anxious about whether this might be bad timing or if either the language barrier or the distance as relative might prove to be too wide to bridge, and had a growing sense moreover that Paolo might be too busy to hang with us that day. We considered making a polite exit…

Before we acted on that instinct, Paolo returned. We learned that we would be going out for lunch shortly and meeting up with his wife, Rita, who had to work that day in her flower shop being that it was a busy time of year in Italy -- All Saints Day. We were explaining our visit to Frontone and attempting to describe where it was when Paolo suggested looking at a map online, so up the spiral stairs we ascended into Paolo’s room. It was there that I spied a contraption that looked like a prop from a 1950s science fiction movie. “Are those a pair of mono vacuum tube-powered HiFi amps I see on the floor over there?” I asked tentatively. “YES!!!” came Paolo’s knowing reply, and with the realization of this shared rarified interest in exotic stereo equipment, Paolo's English seemed to improve!

Paolo shows off his homemade stereo
Paolo shows off his homemade stereo

We compared favorite musical genres and performers and the commonality seemed to deepen. Paolo demonstrated to us his fiendishly complex, Unix-based file cataloguing system, which contained tens of thousands of music files played through a handmade stereo and fantastic Sonus Faber speakers. A meeting of the minds -- music lovers (and techno-geeks) rule!

lunch with Paolo's familyheart attack on a plate, om nom nomBut this would have to wait, for now. We were off to a nearby agriturismo for a wonderful lunch. It was one of those experiences that’s largely out of reach to typical tourists; a privilege reserved for those lucky enough to have the benefit of a knowing a hospitable guide. Paolo discussed each course with the waiter and ensured that we were served the best wines and the finest beef. Plate after heaping plate of family-style dishes kept issuing forth from the kitchen... spinach gnocchi, tagliatelle, two kinds of prime steak, three desserts. It was, once again, a sumptuous (and copious) Italian feast, and we loved every minute of it!

Mark and Paolo at the Piazza IV NovembrePerugian undergroundAfter lunch we walked off some of the calories as we were led on whirlwind tour of central Perugia, which, like most medieval cities, is entirely uphill. We rode the funky little Mini Metro up to the city center, and sampled several historic sites while “nonna” patiently waited down below. Perugia is a beautiful place, and now that we’d had a taste of it we regretted not having more time to explore it, especially as the denizens were preparing for the annual chocolate festival. We did breeze through the Palazzo dei Priori, saw a Ferarri, took some pictures at Fontana Maggiore, peeked in and out of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, and then delved into the ancient medieval underground. (Who knew there was an entire city, perfectly preserved underneath modern Perugia? Extraordinary!) If we'd been on our own, we’d definitely have spent more time exploring, but we were very grateful to Paolo for having given us the “best of” tour. He clearly has a lot of pride in his town and understandably so.

Part of the reason for returning to the house was to meet up with two of Paolo's friends, who had stopped by to test drive a new handmade stereo component. Most of what ensued for the next hour or two was erudite discourse on vacuum tube components, custom made speaker wiring, and detailed comparisons of magnificently intricate pieces of classical and jazz music. We spent the evening sitting in the dark swaddled in beautifully crystalline sound, an homage to contemplative listening parties of yesteryear wherein the participants would listen reverently to an LP played in its entirety. It was pleasantly surprising, in an “I-never-expected-to-be-here-doing-this” kind of way.

But as it began to get later and later, the pleasure of being treated to such a pure musical appreciation was beginning to be undermined by the looming reality of a long and somewhat arduous drive back to Le Marche, threading between and over the mountains in the pitch-black night. It seemed to us that it was probably time to go, but it soon became apparent that we’d forgotten we were in a Mediterranean country that has different sense of time than the US.

her royal highness
her royal highness

After several hours of immersive listening and with it being after 10:00 pm, we spiraled downstairs to say our goodbyes to the women of the house, only to find them preparing to serve dinner. We offered our heartfelt thanks for a wonderful day, thinking it would be the polite thing to do to not wear out our welcome but rather leave them to enjoy their family dinner and make our way back. But the look of disappointment on nonna's face made me instantly realize that this dinner was in fact intended for the guests of the house, and to leave now would be the height of rudeness. Drive be damned! We hung our coats back up and stayed to enjoy yet another privileged experience of travelers with friends “on the inside” -- a homemade dinner with a local family complete with a full array of digestivi afterwards. Again, this is the kind of encounter you're not going to find in a guidebook, and is one of the reasons we find travel so compelling. Connecting with local folks, getting to see a slice of real Italian life, being invited into someone's home; that's what we call “travel gold.” It had turned out to be a very full day, and despite a somewhat bleary midnight ride back to LTM, we thoroughly enjoyed our serendipitous day with our newfound Italian relatives who epitomized the generosity of Italian hospitality.

* browse all Perugia pics
* browse all Umbria pics
* A greener way to travel to Umbria's capital

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Posted by Mark & Sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments

09 October 2009
Up to the challenge
wine-tasting in Jesi

my new happy place
my new happy place

We got off to a bit of a rough start for our winery tour, still not grasping the concept that EVERYTHING in Italy closes from 1-4pm. (We're slow learners.) We arrived at the first winery at about 12:30, but just missed getting in before they closed for lunch. Dagger! So we killed a few hours wandering around the nearby town of Jesi, trying to find internet access. As usual, easier said than done. We did eventually find a cafe in the main square with free access, but not before traipsing through a really creepy deserted rundown part of town. Here's a tip: if you find yourself in Jesi, maintain the high ground and don't explore downhill.

if I completely empty my suitcase, this just might fit...Attempt #2 at visiting the Montecappone vineyard was substantially more enjoyable. Not only do they have gas pumps dispensing wine by the gallon (schweeeeet!), but there are a ton of wines to taste. The woman in the tasting room asked us which of their wines we'd like to try. Not knowing any better, we answered "Tutti!" So she poured us very generous tastes of about a dozen wines. Boof! I tried to explain that I was driving and only needed a very small taste. No dice. We often complain about the "Virginia pour" which might as well be dispensed with an eyedropper. After visiting wineries in Napa, Sonoma, and Monterey, we thought that a "California pour" was the way to go. But this day we learned that an "Italian pour" is the ultimate! At Montecappone they gave us almost a third of a glass of each wine to taste. I wound up either pouring most of mine out -- the horror! -- or giving it to Mark. Who drank a LOT of wine before the day was through. He suffers for his art.

ahhhhh, that's the stuff!Next stop was the nearest winery according to the map, although each item on said map was displayed with a gigantic circle, so it was a little tricky to discern exactly where everything was located. Where there's a will, however, there's a way! And thus we found our way to Tenuta di Tavignano, a beautiful winery located on a hilltop overlooking the Esino Valley. The winemaker there didn't speak a word of English, but he was so passionate about describing his product that we all seemed to be fluent in the language of wine. Or maybe that was just the result of all those generous pours...

Valentina Bonci: look, we have the same face!Rather than continuing on to the next closest winery, we asked the winemaker for his opinion of which he thought we should visit. He pointed to one on our map that wasn't particularly close, and required a bit of a wild goose chase up and down some windy mountain roads, but was ultimately worth the effort. Bonci produces award-winning Verdicchio wines, the region's most famous varietal. We were somewhat familiar with this crisp white, but got to taste the full range of flavors the Verdicchio grape has to offer, including some stunningly rich 10-year-old bottles. Yum! Plus oktapodi made a new friend in Valentina Bonci, who volunteered to pose for a picture and declared, "Look, we have the same face!"

We made it back to La Tavola Marche with almost a case of wine from these three producers. Which gave us quite a goal to accomplish, as we were due to return home in just a few days! Fortunately, we like a challenge. (Unlike another pair of LTM guests, who returned empty-handed the next day, unable to find a single winery on the map! Amateurs.) We even managed to spirit one bottle of Verdicchio home to DC, where it sits in the fridge awaiting just the right occasion. Cin-cin!

Montecappone s.r.l
Via Colle Olivo 2
60035 Jesi (Ancona)
+39 0731-205-761

Tenuta di Tavignano
Azienda Agricola Lucangeli Aymerich di Laconi
Località Tavignano
62011 Cingoli (Macerata) 
+39 0733-617-303

Azienda Agricola Vallerosa Bonci
Via Torre, 15/17
60034 Cupramontana (Ancona)
+39 0731 789129

* all Jesi-area winery pics
* Going Sideways in Oregon wine country
* Look Ma, I'm a Wine Whore!

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Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
07 October 2009
These guys can even make fish guts fun!
cooking class at La Tavola Marche
What better way to bide the time waiting for the arrival of our new laptop than take a half-day cooking class at La Tavola Marche? We'll fill in the details soon... sardine guts and hand-cranked pasta and grilled polenta, oh my! But in the meantime here are a few pics to tantalize and tempt and hopefully capture what a truly delightful day we had. First in the kitchen with Jason and then at the table with both Jason & Ashley (and also their hilariously crusty neighbor). Couldn't think of a more splendid way to spend a sunny Wednesday!

la bella cucina
la bella cucina

Sardine antipasto in progress
sardine antipasto in progress

grilled polenta, awwwwww yeah!
grilled polenta, awwwwwww yeah!

lookin' stylish in our LTM aprons
lookin' stylish in our LTM aprons

il Dottore stops by to bust balls
il Dottore stops by to bust balls

Jason is *so* pretty when he serves the coffee
Jason is *so* pretty when he serves the coffee

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Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
06 October 2009
The pros and cons of going off the beaten path
expect the unexpected

golden hour in Mondavio
golden hour in Mondavio

Part one: Fossombrone
It started out harmlessly enough.

One of our many maps helpfully pointed out all the castles in the area. We'd seen the remains of a castle high atop a hill each time we passed by the town of Fossombrone. So it seemed a reasonable enough quest to try to get to the top of the hill and check out the castle, right?

But, let's face it, one doesn't seek out the offbeat in Italy in an attempt to be reasonable.

Here's how it actually went down: We drove to Fossombrone, less than half an hour from our agriturismo in Piobbico. We stopped for a quick bite, figuring we had a bit of a climb ahead of us, and poked around town for some signage to indicate which way to the castle. None to be found. So we headed up the first staircase we could find. Which took us to yet another set of steep stairs. Which led to, as best we could fathom, someone's front yard. Still no signage, and no visual indication that we were heading in anything remotely resembling the right direction. So what else was there to do but keep going up?

the uphill journey begins   …and continues   …and may never end   ok, we're at the top of the hill, now what???

It was at this point in the program that I miiiiiiiiight have gotten a little cranky, perhaps a tad petulant, maybe even just the slightest bit whiny.

Now, faithful readers, you all know how much I like going off the beaten path, yes? But I'm not a big fan of trudging around with no payoff. And this was threatening to be a deadend, with an excellent Stairmaster workout thrown in to boot. We stopped to ask a denizen of Fossombrone, in our broken Italian, where's the castle? She paused from her stair-sweeping for a moment, considered the request, and pointed skyward. Right. Keep going up.

the goats are just as surprised to see usLong story short, we did eventually reach something vaguely resembling a castle, but only after climbing about a trillion stairs and crossing through a yard with goats in it. Yes, goats. I was sure we were about two steps away from encountering an angry farmer with a shotgun, but no other human creatures appeared on the hilltop. Apparently we were the only ones silly enough to be up there. And it soon became obvious why, as the "castle" turned out to be a private residence constructed among the ruins of some former castle-type structure. Bummer! There were some lovely views of Le Marche atop the hill, and a delicious breeze. But other than the satisfaction of completing what we started, the Great Fossombrone Castle Caper turned out to be a bit of a bust.

there's the, ehm, castle
there's the, ehm, castle

It did set the tone for the rest of the day, though: expect the unexpected.


Part two: Cartoceto & Mombaroccio
right. closed in the afternoons. we get it.noooooooooo informationOur next stop was Cartoceto. One of the items on our short list was a visit to an olive grove, to see how Italian olive oil is made. And according to Ashley, Cartoceto is one of the premier producers of olive oil in the region. So we set off there next, and arrived in town in the early afternoon. After stopping for a couple of ridiculously overpriced sodas (ouch! you expect that in a place like Venice, but not in this nondescript town in the middle of nowhere!) we poked around looking for the tourist information office. Which turned out to be closed. Of course. Foolish mortals, it's the afternoon! Why would anything actually be OPEN? There was nobody else around town, save for the overpriced soda vendor who could only shrug and tell us it wasn't olive season. So once again we took a moment to gaze at the scenic hillside, olive groves gleaming just out of reach in the sun, and got back in the car.

Cartoceto olive groves
Cartoceto olive groves

There was another town along the way called Mombaroccio that had seemed promising. The map promised another castle, as did the roadside signs. And indeed it was a cute little walled city, but there was nothing else to see and nothing going on in town. Another strikeout!

Part three: at long last, Mondavio!
Just as things were looking bleak, we found ourselves in Mondavio, a town known for its gigantic medieval trebuchets. Our only prior experience with trebuchets had been the kind that fling flaming upright pianos at Burning Man, so we were intrigued.

wonder if you could fling a flaming piano w/this…?Mondavio's Rocca Roveresca and trebuchetsAnd, for the first time all day, we were NOT disappointed! Mondavio's trebuchet collection stands in a courtyard under the watchful eye of the Rocca Roveresca. The trebuchets themselves are fun to check out, and pretty unique even in a country that's chock-full of cool medieval/renaissance sites. But the Rocca Roveresca was an unexpected treat. We were prepared for it to be closed for the day or for the season, but the helpful lady at this tourist info office whipped out a set of keys and let us in. Schweet!

oktapodi guards the Roccamedieval dumbwaiterIt was worth every bit of the eight-euro admission price for two tickets. A masterpiece of the Tuscan architect Francesco Giorgio di Martini, Mondavio's Rocca Roveresca houses a collection of weaponry and armor, sports fabulous views of the Metauro Valley, and has lots of fun passageways to explore. OK, some of the wax dummy scenes were a little cheesy, but there's nothing wrong with a little cheese from time to time.

stellar views of the Metauro ValleyWe practically had the place to ourselves, so we took our time wandering the halls, checking out the refurbished dining rooms and creepy torture chamber. From the windows at the very top, we got some magnificent vistas of the surrounding countryside. And one last glance at those kickass trebuchets in the courtyard below.

To top it off, as we were heading out, another splendiferous sunset was about to begin. We were treated to a golden departure from Mondavio, and a dazzling drive home, as the sun painted the hills impossible shades of purple and red. Ahhhhhhh, that's the stuff! Sometimes going off the path is rewarded, after all.

dazzling drive home
dazzling drive home

Rocca Roveresca, Mondavio

Ufficio Turistico Pro Loco IAT Mondavio
+39 0721 97 102

* flaming piano tossed by trebuchet (video)
* browse all Fossombrone/Cartoceto/Mombaroccio pics
* browse all Mondavio pics

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Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
05 October 2009
Laptop FAIL

The past week in Le Marche has been awesome, and I was looking forward to regaling you with tales of castles, adorable hill towns, and nonstop pigging out on local delicacies and wines. However, we returned back to La Tavola Marche on Friday night, after a most excellent day in Assisi, to find that our laptop hard drive had completely crapped out. Crap, indeed! This presents many challenges, from the mundane (borrowing a computer at the local internet cafe) to the discouraging (several hundred pics not yet backed up to CD) to the downright critical (Mark's work and some big deadlines). Thanks to some scrambling, and assistance from my brother, we hope to have a replacement shortly. Fingers crossed!

In the meantime, lest you think we're letting this crisis get us down (as if!) here are a few pics from our delightful daytrip to Assisi. More soon, hopefully.

atop Rocca Maggiore
atop Rocca Maggiore

Basilica di San Francesco
Basilica di San Francesco

Assisi by the light of the moon
Assisi by the light of the moon

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
04 October 2009
deliciousness at the Apecchio Truffle Festival

piadine con tartufi
piadine con tartufi

We'd been looking forward to the Apecchio Festa di Tartufi all week. Located in the next town over from our agriturismo, the it promised to be a celebration of Italy's earthiest treat: truffles!

polenta with ragu
polenta with ragu and vino della casa

We sampled truffle spreads, truffle-infused oils, truffle cheese, truffle salumi. And of course there were plenty of other wonderful local dishes, like polenta smothered in ragu and the most fabulous buttery green olives I've ever tasted. Abbondanza, indeed!

Club dei Brutti
Club dei Brutti play a festival tune

best seat in the houseThe festival also provided an amusing window into small-town Le Marche life. It seemed like the entire region came out for this delightful Sunday afternoon celebration. The people-watching was exquisite. And as an extra treat, the famous Club dei Brutti ("Ugly Club") strolled down the main drag to play an impromptu concert in medieval costumes. True to form, the tune was a bit ragged. But what they lacked in musical chops they more than made up for in spirit, and soon the entire town was dancing and clapping along. Add in a generous splash (or ten) of vino rosso della casa, served out of recycled plastic water bottles, and you have one festive day!

Be sure to check out more delicious foodie travel tales at Wanderlust and Lipstick's WanderFood Wednesday!


* browse all Apecchio pics
* Get down get funghi (San Sisto mushroom festival)
* La Tavola Marche blog: Introducing the newest members of the Ugly Club
* WanderFood Wednesday


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Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
02 October 2009
Saints and sinners in Assisi

We were a little unsure about visiting Assisi, hometown of Saint Francis and focal point for religious tourism. Would they even let us in? What would two heathens do all day in this super-Catholic town? Bolstered by A&J's recommendation and some other positive reports, we decided to make a go of it.

Assisi is a drive-able daytrip from Piobbico, over the mountains and into Umbria's Spoleto Valley. This was our first real experience with the Italian Autostrada, the national highway system. I gotta say, after winding our way back and forth on tiny mountain passes, it was pretty nice to open up and haul ass on some nice straight roads. Everything you've heard about Italians driving maniacally is true. We had to speed up to keep up.

approaching Assisi

We knew we'd made the right choice the first moment we spotted Assisi from the road. Carved into the Umbrian hillside, this fabulous medieval city does have its fair share of churchy sights, but it's also got cool castles with lots of nooks and crannies to explore. As with many Italian hilltowns, it's a little tricky to get your bearings, and it took us a while to find what we were looking for. But everyone knows that getting lost and wandering around is half the fun!

Rocca Maggiore: impenetrable fortressRocca Maggiore and Assisi's historic centerOur first stop was the Rocca Maggiore, the enormous 13th century fortress perched high atop the city. This place spoiled us for all future castle exploration! There is an entrance fee, but it's worth every penny. There are not one but TWO towers to climb, affording magnificent views of Umbria in all directions. The main fortress building has some marvelous displays of weapons, armor, and even a room re-enacting a famous medieval painting. (OK, I'll admit, those faceless mannequins were a little creepy.) Everything is well-labeled in English and several other languages. There's a really cool tunnel joining the fortress with the keep, which you can walk through and peek out the tiny windows, pretending you're a knight defending the castle from invading forces. Just watch your head; they were a lot shorter in those days! We also enjoyed the displays and photos from Calendimaggiore, a huge festival that takes place in May and looks like a cross between a Renaissance Faire and Burning Man. We just might have to come back for that!

Franciscan monk on an errand
Franciscan monk on an errand

The remainder of our Assisi explorations included wandering around the piazza in front of the Basilica di Santa Chiara, a peek inside the Duomo di San Rufino (with a somewhat surreal exhibit of JP2-inspired Pope-art), the Temple of Minerva, and of course a visit to the Basilica di San Francesco. As it happened, our visit coincided with the Feast of Saint Francis, so the catacombs beneath the lower church were packed with people streaming in to pay their respects to Assisi's patron saint. The air was thick with incense as pilgrims of all shapes and sizes lined up in hushed tones to circle the crypt containing the remains of Saint Francis. It was yet another occasion for some excellent people-watching. Tiny Italian nuns knelt and wept with outstretched hands. Familes with matching rosaries reverently touched a cornerstone and made the sign of the cross. An entire football team got their picture taken in front of the crypt. And somehow Mark and I made it out of there without being hit by lightning, which to my mind seemed the real miracle.

awesome Assisi sunset
awesome Assisi sunset

We emerged to find a stupendous sunset, followed by an enormous full moon rising over Assisi. Gorgeous. Who knew we'd have such a great time in this sacred city?

Alas, apparently we'd pushed our heathen luck a bit too far. As most of you already know, we returned to the agriturismo that night to find that our laptop had inexplicably died. I would've preferred a lightning hit! No matter, not even this technological catastrophe could marr an otherwise delightful day exploring Assisi. We highly recommend this town to anyone visiting Umbria, saints and sinners alike.

* all Assisi pics
* La Tavola Marche: Assisi, A Day Trip in Umbria
* Laptop FAIL


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Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments