On a wonderful tip from the Journeywoman site, we had dinner at Trattoria alla Madonna, just off the Ponte Rialto. Couldn't recommend this place more highly! To say the waiters are friendly is a vast understatement. (Ours was like an Italian version of Kramer from Seinfeld.) And I absolutely had to try the spaghetti con nero di seppie -- squid ink! -- which is definitely not for the faint of heart. But I loved it! My one recommendation, if you're going to try this dish, is to be sure to wear black, as it is a messy mofo.
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