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Re: Wanderfood Wednesday: Epicurean despot (by mark at 5/09 2:16 PM)
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17 May 2013
Photo Friday: waking up in Petra

room with a view

Petra is one of those mystical-magical places that, even with our modern jaded overexposure, never fails to amaze. A small group of us had the opportunity to take a quick trip here after our meetings, and I came away with a small mountain of photos. (Imagine your complete and total lack of surprise.)

Today's first batch is just from the first few moments of waking up at the Petra Marriott, which is about 10 minutes away from the archeological site. Even the views from our room were stunning. We'd arrived late the previous night and hadn't had a chance to appreciate the delicious vistas of the Petra Valley.


Normally waking up before sunrise is not my jam. I got over that. The baklava tray helped.
a civilized way to wake up


The misty-mountain-hop quality of the light...



Gradually began to warm up...



It always amazes me to see plants growing under such austere conditions.


Bit of a lonely outpost, but the view beats cubeville anyday!


Just a few minutes' difference made dramatic changes in the scenery...



Oktapodi is awake and ready to see Petra!


Er mah gerrrrrrd, soooooo many more pics of Petra to come. Meanwhile, for more fabulous travel snaps, check out Delicious Baby's Photo Friday.


Also, I'm still working on restoring the site after our recent crashitude, so not all pics have been uploaded and a few bits & pieces need to be tidied up. Do peruse the other Jordan blog posts, though! And thanks for your patience.

 

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments


09 May 2013
Wanderfood Wednesday: Epicurean despot

[Hey, waitaminute, it's not Wednesday! Le sigh. Some of you may have noticed that the site's been down for over a week. Massive server issues last week. Special shoutout to my crack tech team -- ehm, that would be Mark -- for pulling some incredibly long hours and working tirelessly to get everything restored. I'd say we're about 95% back on track but there's still a few bumps to work out. Thanks for your patience! And now, only a week plus one day later than I'd intended to post, it, onward to the latest Wanderfood Wednesday...]

Before coming to Jordan, I was aware of -- and, I thought, prepared for -- legendary Arabic hospitality. Boy was I wrong! The food was amazing, without exception. And even an allegedly small snack got turned into a copious multi-course feast. These people don't mess around. And they don't take no for an answer.

Y'all know I suffer for my art, but the dinner that capped off our team outing in Amman tested even my limits. It was redonkulous.


I blame these two:

Adnan, our gracious host
Adnan, our gracious host

Rawan, our handler
the lovely and talented Rawan, our handler


After a brief tour of Amman, the team got dropped off at the Amman Marriott. Apparently the restaurant we were headed to didn't serve alcohol, so we were instructed to get liquored up at the piano bar. Amidst the snark teambuilding banter, the strains of various showtunes floated up from the lounge. Also a little Metallica. Lemme tell ya, you just haven't lived until you've heard "Nothing Else Matters" as interpreted by a Jordanian piano player in a long red dress.

rawking out at the Amman Marriott piano lounge
cuz why not play Metallica in a floor-length red dress?
f'shizzle


Onward to the restaurant! Rajeen is a phenomenal Armenian restaurant located in the heart of Amman's entertainment district. Siderant: Why are there no Armenian restaurants in DC?? In a town that has more Ethiopian joints than Addis, and even covers cuisines like Burmese and Afghan, why no Armenian? That's just criminal.

Rajeen Armenian restaurant
Armenian decor


As with most meals in Jordan, the feast started with a number of small plates, dips, and awesome bread.

appetizer thing
bread, om nom nom
more appetizer things


We didn't order off the menu, so I must confess that I have no idea what most of this stuff was. It was just om-nom-nommy. And the dishes kept on coming!

the pusher
meeeeeeeeat


With a brief stop for this digestive...

digestive


Annnnnnd then a whole batch of desserts. Ooof.

dessert thing
more dessert things
this dessert thing was a little sketchy


Bonus points to any foodies out there who can correctly identify any of these dishes. All I know is that we ate till we nearly exploded. It was deliciously grueling.

Overheard on the ride back from our team dinner in Amman:
"There's no democracy when it comes to food in Jordan!"

Epicurean despot. It's not only a great name for a band (or maybe a Food Network show) it's also how they do things in Jordan.


For more mouthwatering travel food photos, check out Wanderlust & Lipstick's WanderFood Wednesday.

 

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 1 comment


23 April 2013
Teambuilding in Amman: the hills are alive

roadside views from the Dead Sea to Amman
roadside views from the Dead Sea to Amman

After a long day of meetings, we were treated to a team outing in downtown Amman. First stop: souvenirs! Because nobody can come back from a biz trip without some junk for the family and the office, right?

someday we hope to look as fabulous as this mud model
someday we hope to look as fabulous as this mud model


We stopped at a souvenir stand on the side of the road between the Dead Sea and Amman. While our lovely hostess helped each teammate haggle their way through bargain purchases, we had a chance to check out the surroundings. On one side, a ramshackle tent village. On the other, gorgeous mountains. From time to time a small child would emerge, moving a scraggly herd of goats down the highway.

a different side of Jordan
a different side of Jordan

goatherder-in-training
goatherder-in-training

this little girl seemed puzzled that I was taking her picture
this little girl seemed puzzled that I was taking her picture...

...but her little brother totally got into it
...but her little brother totally got into it


And onward to Amman! Since we'd arrived at the Dead Sea in the dead of night, this was our first chance to appreciate the Jordanian landscape. The elevation differential was ear-popping.

beautiful countryside en route to Amman
beautiful countryside en route to Amman

Jordan was much hillier than I expected
Jordan was much hillier than I expected

room with a view
room with a view


Once in Amman, we drove past some interesting neighborhoods and notable structures, without much chance to explore beyond what we could see from the windows of the van. That's the downside to being part of a big group, and part of the reason we prefer independent travel. Still, we probably wouldn't found ourselves in Amman otherwise, and it was a nice overview of a surprisingly beautiful city.

downtown Amman

cool bridge

King Abdullah Mosque


We did stop and get out of the van to check out the Citadel and Roman ruins. The site was closed, but we got a chance to see it from the outside, and got some lovely hilltop views of Amman while the evening call to prayer rang out over the city.

Amman Citadel and ruins
Amman Citadel and ruins

eery green lighting
eery green lighting

Amman at dusk
Amman at dusk

yay team
yay team


We also had a quick pitstop at the Roman Amphitheater, which looks absolutely gorgeous at night and would be a kickass place to see a concert.

Mark thinks AquaSpank should play here
Mark thinks AquaSpank should play here


Roman Amphitheatre

and surrounding hills

manymanymany photos

Overall, I really liked Amman's quirky narrow streets and hilly landscape. The teambuilding continued at an amazing Armenian restaurant, but that's the subject of an upcoming WanderFood Wednesday post so stay tuned!

three cheers for biz trips to unexpected places
three cheers for biz trips to unexpected places

Arabic graffiti <3
Arabic graffiti <3


RELATED LINKS:
* browse all Amman pics
* browse all Jordan pics uploaded so far
* check out past WanderFood Wednesday posts (I haven't done one of these in a while and it's long overdue!) 

 

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments


18 April 2013
In my Dead Sea bowling shoes

Every time I mentioned to someone that we were headed to Jordan, they insisted on two activities: 1) float in the Dead Sea, and 2) visit Petra. We did make it to Petra, which is the subject of an upcoming post. Today, I bring you our adventures in floatitude. And mud.

best cure for jetlag is Turkish coffee
best cure for jetlag is Turkish coffee

...served by this guy!
...served by this guy!

I traveled to Jordan for a work meeting, hosted by the Jordan Valley Dead Sea Marriott Resort & Spa. Not too shabby. (Have I mentioned that I love my job?) We arrived in the middle of the night, which made it hard to appreciate the hotel's proximity to the Dead Sea. After some strong Turkish coffee the next morning, we were delighted to find out that the Dead Sea was RIGHT THERE. If this had been a typical beachfront property, we could have seen the lapping waves from our balcony. However, at the Dead Sea things are a bit different.

way below sea level, but still not at the sea
way below sea level, but still not AT the sea
way below sea level, but still not AT the sea

For starters, the hotel is already below sea level, and then you have to go DOWN to get to the sea itself.

beach slippers for all!
beach slippers for all!

ready to brave the rocks, in my Dead Sea bowling shoes
ready to brave the rocks, in my Dead Sea bowling shoes

Dead Sea shoreline
Dead Sea shoreline

If that weren't weird enough, the shoreline is rocky, not sandy. Once you get close to the water it's pretty rough on bare feet. The hotel conveniently provides its guests with "beach slippers." Mmmmm, bowling shoes in a foreign country, how unexpected!

Mark floats vertically
Mark floats vertically

circus seals
circus seals

Floating in the Dead Sea is a surreal experience. Its hypersalinity makes you bob awkwardly on the surface; you literally can not sink. It's goofy. (I felt like a circus seal.) Do not get any in your mouth if you can help it; the taste is indescribably harsh and mineral-y. Plus it's got this bizarre slippery texture that makes it seem like you're swimming in motor oil. And heaven help you if you've got any cuts or even scratches. After a few minutes my leg started to burn and I realized I had a microscopic scrape on my shin. Not something I'd noticed before getting in the water, but the Dead Sea did not let me off the hook so easily. Owee!

where HASN'T oktapodi been??
where HASN'T oktapodi been?
where HASN'T oktapodi been?

Right, so after a few minutes we'd had enough of that. Floating in the Dead Sea, check. The other must-do is coating oneself in Dead Sea mud, reknown for its therapeutic properties. Mark was a little suspicious, but of course I dove right into the clay jar of mud sitting at the shoreline. I didn't go quite so far as to coat my entire body, just my face and arms. Mudtastic! I could feel it tingling on my skin, which was fun, but it turned out to be  pretty tenacious stuff to remove. Thankfully the hotel provides a nearby shower to rinse and scrub off. I'm all in favor of getting dirt under my fingernails, but I wasn't too keen on showing up for my work meetings in blackface.

oktapodi approves of this business trip
oktapodi approves of this business trip

golden hour
golden hour
golden hour

We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the hotel's lovely infinity pools and gorgeous landscaping. Not a bad way to slough off the jetlag.


Full disclosure: most of you know that I work for Marriott, and since this was a work trip it was paid for by Marriott. But, as always, my opinions are my own!


RELATED LINKS:
* Jordan Valley Dead Sea Marriott Resort & Spa
* browse all Dead Sea pics
* browse all Jordan posts

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
12 April 2013
Photo Friday: Middle East teaser

I'm waaaaaaay behind on posting pics and stories from last month's trip to Jordan & Lebanon  -- due in small part to a technology snafu that turned into a mild panic this week --  but I'm back on task and should have some goodies for you soon. Meanwhile I didn't want anyone to abandon hope, so here are a few quick teaser photos from our delightful accommodations at the Jordan Valley Marriott Resort & Spa.

Views from our room by night...

Jordan Valley Marriott at night

Jordan Valley Marriott at night


...and by day (that's the Dead Sea in the hazy background of the second photo)

Jordan Valley Marriott by day

Jordan Valley Marriott by day


And just for kicks, one from Petra, because who couldn't use a little cameltoe on a Friday?

Petra cameltoe

More to come, including our adventures in Beirut. Stay tuned!

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
08 March 2013
Photo Friday: Happy International Women's Day!

grrrrlpower
grrrrrrlpower!

Right now we're on a long layover in Heathrow Airport, waiting on a connecting flight to Jordan for a work trip. So I thought I'd commemorate International Women's Day with a pic of just a few of my favorite, fierce, international women. This photo always makes me smile; it was taken after we finished build week on our Habitat trip to Mozambique in October. The physical strength shown here is surpassed only by the strength of the relationships we build during that trip. In fact, we're going to visit Hanine, in the middle, in Beirut next week after my work in Jordan is done. Stay tuned for more pics & stories, and meanwhile take a moment today to celebrate the fierce women in your world!

RELATED LINKS:
* A love note to Team Pedro 
* browse all Moz posts
* browse all pics from Mozambique and South Africa

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
12 February 2013
Happy Birthday, Mark!

It's not quite a milestone birthday, but it's one of those halfway-to-a-milestone birthdays, and definitely time to celebrate! Recently I realized I've done several oktapodi retrospectives, but have never properly featured my two-legged travel partner-in-crime. Mah bad!! Please allow me to remedy that with a heaping handful of my favorite Mark pics.

party on, Wayne (Rio 2012)
party on, Wayne (Rio 2012)


We've had more than our share of epic travel adventures...

one if by land, two if by sea (Stinson Beach 2007)
one if by land, two if by sea (Stinson Beach 2007)

Playarific (Burning Man 2008)
Playarific (Burning Man 2008)

Malaysian beachy goodness (Sipadan 2008)
Malaysian beachy goodness (Sipadan 2008)

oktapodi and Mark attempt some early-morning cheer (Kinabatangan River 2008)
oktapodi and Mark attempt some early-morning cheer (Kinabatangan River 2008)

bellinis! (Venice 2009)
bellinis! (Venice 2009)

a great place to ponder life's mysteries (Furlo Gorge 2009)
a great place to ponder life's mysteries (Furlo Gorge 2009)

if I completely empty my suitcase, this might fit (Jesi 2009)
if I completely empty my suitcase, this might fit (Jesi 2009)

hoping not to get struck by lightning (Assisi 2009)
hoping not to get struck by lightning (Assisi 2009)

yay, castles! (Piobbico 2009)
yay, castles! (Piobbico 2009)

Rocca Montale (San Marino 2009)
Rocca Montale (San Marino 2009)

The ol' Mark and the Sea (San Diego 2010)
The ol' Mark and the Sea (San Diego 2010)

devilish dudes in the Mothership (Burning Man 2010)
devilish dudes in the Mothership (Burning Man 2010)

stuffed shrooms, om nom nom (Middleburg 2012)
stuffed shrooms, om nom nom (Middleburg 2012)


Mark and I have been together a reeeeeeally long while, which means he's been a good sport as I've dragged him into odd circumstances, more times than I can count...

soaking with my crazy aunt in the Jacumba hot springs (San Diego 2010)
soaking with my crazy aunt in the Jacumba hot springs (San Diego 2010)

cooking doro wat with great friends in the middle of nowhere (Kamloops 2011)
cooking doro wat with great friends in the middle of nowhere (Kamloops 2011)

putting up with my gardening insanity (San Diego 2012)
putting up with my gardening insanity (San Diego 2012)

making art for Chipenhe village kids (Mozambique 2012)
making art for Chipenhe village kids (Mozambique 2012)


And of course no Mark retrospective would be complete without some pics of him in full rawkstar mode. If you want to hear him live, be sure to check out his band AquaSpank for show detes and tons more pics.

at PJ Skidoos

Paradiso

The Bunker

Dockside

Quattro Goombas winery

Friday Night Live in Herndon

IJ Cann's


Happy Birthday, MWS! Ah lurve yew!

festival <3 (Osyrusfest 2009)
festival <3 (Osyrusfest 2009)


RELATED LINKS:
* browse all Mark pics
* browse all Mark + Sonia pics
* AquaSpank site  and Facebook page
* aforementioned oktapodi features:
Hankering | My night with oktapodi | Showing your O face | To oktapodi with love

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
08 February 2013
Photo Friday: beautiful shiny Carnaval

It's Carnaval time! Zoinks, it took me forever to get all the pics posted from our Feb 2012 trip, partly because there were soooooooo many of them, and partly because... well, life gets in the way...

samba ball

Now seems like a great time to look back on this epic trip, which was primarily a celebration of my 40th birthday. (Mark tried getting them to move the party back to November, but alas it didn't work.) And why not ease the pain of this big milestone by hitting the biggest party on the planet? Brazilians know how to do it right, that's for sure.

Mangueira Samba School performs at Rio Scala Ball
Mangueira Samba School performs at Rio Scala Ball


In addition to attending a traditional samba ball, we splashed out on some fabulous front-row seats to the parades in the Sambadrome. Unreal. Gigantic floats, elaborate costumes, and nonstop smiling-singing-dancing from every single person in the parades and in the stands. For like eight hours straight.

warrior tigers
warrior tigers

are we having fun or what?
are we having fun or what?

sing it, sister!
sing it, sister


My siblings contributed to the birthday celebration by booking us a scuba junket in Arraial do Cabo. While it wasn't the most fabulous diving we've ever done, it was nice to get out of the city for a bit, and the scenery was divine.

and life is good
and life is good


We also managed to fit in a few standard touristy things, like...

the Big J
taking a trip up Corcovado to see The Big J

Sugarloaf at golden hour
checking out the jaw-dropping views from Sugarloaf (Pão de Açúcar)

Ipanema
and loving life on Ipanema Beach


Choosing just a handful of "best of" pics was almost painful! There were just so many beautiful shiny things as far as the eye could see. (See below for links to the rest of the photos, as well as all the blog posts from that trip.) Someday it'd be great to go back and see Rio in its natural state -- y'know, without a troupe of singing and dancing M&Ms crammed onto the subway at all hours of the day and night -- but it sure was fun to experience it in all its partyrific glory.


For more fabulous travel snaps, check out Delicious Baby's Photo Friday.


RELATED LINKS:
* browse all Brazil pics
* browse all parade pics
* browse all Arraial do Cabo pics
* browse all Corcovado pics
* browse all Pão de Açúcar pics
* read all Brazil posts

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
10 January 2013
Sistas are doin' it for themselves

It's time for part three! If you missed them, catch up on the WHO and WHAT. Now it's time for the WHY.

Why did we travel across the globe to spend a week slinging cinderblocks in the middle of Mozambique? Here's a hint: it wasn't really about building houses.

Nosta and family
Nosta and family: Juliao, Sheila, Celeste, Eclipson

Sure, Habitat for Humanity's mission is to provide affordable houses with those who lack adequate shelter. (Notice it says "with" and not "for.") But, let's face it, there are much more efficient ways to build a house than schlepping in a bunch of foreigners with little-to-no construction experience.

Nosta and Felixmina
Nosta and Felixmina

We were there to participate in the transformative experience of giving these two women and their families a second chance. And while it takes money to do that -- undying thanks to the many folks who sponsored us and made this journey possible -- it's so much more powerful to be there in person.

Working side by side with these women and their neighbors, each step of the way...
mixing masa

Getting to know their children...
troublemakers!

Hearing their amazing stories and songs of gratitude...
Nosta tells her story in song

And, of course, coming back and talking about it nonstop. :)

This is not the same as writing a check to some faraway organization, not by a long shot.


opening ceremony
opening ceremony

We were greeted by Nosta and Felixmina and their neighbors on Day 1 of the build, where they immediately started singing and dancing. Not knowing any better, and in fact not entirely sure who exactly it was that we were there to help, the team gamely joined in. We'd eventually get the hang of this, as singing & dancing (and not quite being sure what the heck was going on) would be recurring themes for the week.

Stef and a neighbor
Stef and one of the neighborhood ladies

Peg and Nosta
Peg and Nosta

With the help of Mama Ida's translations, the families and masons gave brief speeches thanking us for "leaving your beautiful homes and families" and coming out to the middle of nowhere to help. Truly lump-in-your-throat sentiments, and we hadn't even been there an hour! Another theme for the week: surprisingly intense emotions.

Pedro and team
Master Mason Pedro and his team


After working alongside Nosta and Felixmina and the ladies of Chipenhe village -- the village is composed of almost only women, as the men have mostly perished from civil war or AIDS or malaria, or have gone to work in the mines of South Africa -- we got to celebrate alongside them at the dedication ceremonies.

dedication celebration
dedication celebration

It was here, for the first time all week, that we heard some emotion come from these stoic, tough women. Felixmina's concern every time she saw rain clouds, because without a roof her son Alvaro's school books would get wet. Nosta's yearning to be reunited with her fifth child, who ran away to live with his aunt because the housing conditions were so bad. And through it all, incredible gratitude at the chance to start over, at the opportunity that comes from having a safe secure place to live, at the responsibility of homeownership.

Felixmina and Alvaro
Felixmina and Alvaro


It costs about $3K to build a house in rural Mozambique. But when fourteen strangers join a community to generate true empowerment, it's priceless.

blessing the house
blessing the house


It's taken a while to capture the words and pictures from this trip, much longer than I expected. It's both a blessing and a curse that I don't operate under any external deadlines on this blog. Your indulgence, dear reader, is appreciated. More pictures have recently been posted: the inspiring and truly fabulous ladies of Chipenhe village, the children, and some scenes from village life. Or check out all Xai-Xai pics in one big batch.

Believe it or not, there are still a few more African tales to tell, so stay tuned for the last few dispatches from our adventure. Happy New Year!


RELATED LINKS:
* A love note to Team Pedro
* Work is love made visible
* browse all Moz posts
* browse all pics from Mozambique and South Africa

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
21 December 2012
Photo Friday: the kids are all right

sistas are doin' it for themselves

For those of you keeping score, I'm still working on the final installment of my three-part series. (Check out the WHO and WHAT posts, if you've missed those, and WHY is coming, I promise!) But in light of last week's horrificness in Connecticut, it seemed a good time to showcase some of the beautiful children of Chipenhe Village.

troublemakers in training

These kids were our constant companions during our week on the Habitat build site, and part of our assignment was to interact with them. This was pretty much the easiest task we were given... they were friendly, adorable, entertaining, and just all-around fabulous kids.

Eclipson and friend


They helped out around the worksite...

shovelers

http://www.pulpology.com/?esid=pics&z=3686&KWID=148


Delighted in having their picture taken...

hey, that's me!

chikani!

hangin' out

Of course, loved them some oktapodi...

oktaposse

Alvaro and oktapodi

where hasn't oktpodi been?

oktapodi is always popular with the ladies

love deez guys


They greeted us every morning and said goodbye each evening, by running after the van and frantically cheering...

welcome committee

They played with whatever materials were on hand...

umbrella fun

ingenious use of soda cans

who needs a Wii when you have this?


Enjoyed some of the supplemental entertainment we brought with us...

bubblicious

Kristin practices the alphabet

Mark makes drawings

art show

And generally seemed to make the most of just being kids

Chipenhe dance party

Fat Albert gets his bath

cutie

Celeste joins the party

To say they touched our hearts is the understatement of the century.

another cutie


This is just the tip of the iceberg... of course there are tons more photos of these little guys. (Warning: somebody's been having a bit too much fun with some new Lightroom presets/filters!)


For more fabulous travel snaps, check out Delicious Baby's Photo Friday.


RELATED LINKS:
* Work is love made visible
* A love note to Team Pedro
* browse all Mozambique posts

* browse all photos from Mozambique and South Africa

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 2 comments
14 December 2012
Photo Friday: London's Friday Night Freakshow

Today we take a short break from Moz posts to bring you a few pics from the London Wonderground.

bring on the freaks!
freaks and a geek

Southbank Centre in the moonlight
Southbank Centre in the moonlight

Open May through September at Southbank Centre, this "marvellous new festival of cabaret, circus and sideshow" was set up right behind our hotel, and we happened to catch one of the last nights. By chance, as we strolled along after dinner one eve, the Friday Night Freakshow was about to begin. Oh, what luck!

freakshow next to The Eye? yes, please!
freakshow next to The Eye? yes, please!

let the show begin
let the show begin

Emceed by the salty Miss Behave, this fabulous concoction of vaudeville acts kept us well entertained into the wee hours.

Miss Behave
Miss Behave

Kalki Hula Girl
Kalki Hula Girl

Gypsy Wood
Gypsy Wood

This was one of those magical moments of travel synchronicity that we couldn't possibly have planned better.

score!
score!

Back to our regularly-scheduled Mozambique posts soon! And more London pics/posts to come.

 

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03 December 2012
Work is love made visible

When you work you are a flute through whose heart the whispering of the hours turns to music.
Which of you would be a reed, dumb and silent, when all else sings together in union?

Always you have been told that work is a curse and labour a misfortune.
But I say to you that when you work you fulfil a part of earth's furthest dream, assigned to you when that dream was born,
And in keeping yourself with labour you are in truth loving life.
And to love life through labour is to be intimate with life's inmost secret...

Work is love made visible.

-- Kahlil Gibran. The Prophet


I've written a bit about the WHO, now it's time to dive into the WHAT.

Nuts & bolts: 14 people (plus a handful of Master Masons and the community of Chipenhe Village) built two houses in five days.

Just chew on that for a minute. It's a pretty amazing thing.

old house new house
old house, new house

Even more amazing, the way this project was managed meant we had slightly different tasks to do every day. The essential rhythm was the same: pile into the van after breakfast, head over to the work site and unload the water and snacks in a shady spot, do whatever Pedro directed us to do until lunchtime, sit around and discuss any number of topics (including Kahlil Gibran) while eating something delicious prepared by the village ladies, and power through the afternoon till the van came to pick us up. For the most part, we functioned as human cement mixers, combining sand and concrete and water into the versatile paste known as masa.

Despite the consistent rhythm, though, each day had a slightly different theme to it.


the starting point
the starting point

Day One: getting the hang of it, and putting up walls
The basic foundation was already there for us. After a brief, heartwarming welcome ceremony, we got to work mixing masa and laying cinderblocks. It was a little awkward for most us who were much more comfortable in front of a computer than actually working with our hands. But through the patience of Pedro (it's so eeeeeeasy, guys!), extra translations from Sara, and some fill-in-the-blanks knowledge from Sean (the only one of us with actual construction experience), we muddled our way through.

so many cinderblocks, so little time
so many cinderblocks, so little time

By midday we'd managed to get about five of the ten rows constructed, plus some of the interior walls. Every once in a while one of the masons would correct our work and we'd have to rip out a crooked block or fill in more masa. But we were starting to feel like we were getting the hang of it.

not bad for a day´s work
not bad for a day´s work

By the end of day one, it seemed as though we might actually end up with a house at the end of the week! Monday was completely exhausting, but it's not often you see such a tangible product of your efforts.


Day Two: da roof, da roof...
Maybe it was luck, maybe excellent planning, but in any case Tuesday turned out to be only a half day of work, plus a half day of beach R&R. This was super-handy, as most of us were completely drained from the previous day's exertions. I don't know that I could have made it through another full day of toiling in the hot sun. But we didn't have to!

Sean and Pedro set the roof beams
Sean and Pedro set the roof beams

Day Two was all about setting the roof beams. This involved wrapping up strands of rebar, pouring slightly saucier masa into a mold, and tying the whole operation up to let it dry.

rebar into roof beams
rebar into roof beams

It wasn't immediately clear to most of us how this operation was going to work. Happily, we did as told and everything came together. By the end of Tuesday, the house looked like this:

house, day two


Day Three: MacGyvering our way towards the finish line
Hump Day on the worksite was probably our best day. The morning consisted of setting the rest of the blocks on which the roof itself would sit. I had one of those "I love my life!" moments where I found myself on a scaffolding, in the middle of nowhere, in Africa, working with a bunch of people I'd come to know and love, building a house. Like ya do.

I'm lovin it
lovin' it

Mark saws cinderblocks for the roof
Mark saws cinderblocks for the roof

As if that weren't fun enough, that afternoon Lacye somehow got us into a series of wheelbarrow races, MacGyvering a ramp in the process, to prove a point to Pedro. I'm not entirely sure how it all started, but the result was an exercise in teamwork and hilarity that became my all-time favorite moment of the week.

wheelbarrow races
wheelbarrow races

Lacye and Hanine pour the floor
Lacye and Hanine pour the floor

too bad Team Pedro never has any fun
too bad Team Pedro never has any fun

By the end of the third day, the house was ready for the roof. And as an extra bonus, because it was Lisa's birthday, we had a little extra celebration that night.


Day Four: things fall apart, sometimes
Our best day was followed immediately by the toughest. Thursday was hot, with a dusty wind blowing grit and sandblasting our faces. (It reminded me a lot of sandstorms on
the Playa, but without the RV to hunker down in for shelter.) Several folks weren't feeling well throughout the day. The week -- and maybe the previous night's celebrations -- were catching up with us.

the team works

That day's tasks involved mastering the difficult arts of masa-flinging and wrestling with The Spackelizer.

Mark flings
Mark flings

Masa-flinging requires scooping just the right quantity and consistency of slurm onto your float. Too much and your arm soon tires. Too little and you have to break the rhythm to reload often. Similarly, the masa needs to be thin enough to allow the correct velocity of the fling, but thick enough to stick to the walls when flung. It's not as easy as Mark's making it look in the above photo. We were tasked with covering all interior walls with patches of flung masa, which then got sanded down into a smoother consistency. Hoo boy.

spackelizing the exterior
spackelizing the exterior

Meanwhile, the outside chore required coating the exterior in a kind of stucco-finish. This meant getting intimate with a nasty little device we called The Spackelizer.

pouring masa into The Spackelizer
pouring masa into The Spackelizer

spackelizing
higher altitude spackelization

A thinner, soupier version of masa gets poured into The Spackelizer, which you then crank like a salad shooter. Masa sprays out in irregular bursts, and you must ensure you're coating the surface with just enough but not too much, otherwise you get clumps and you incur the Wrath of Pedro. (OK, not wrath, he'd just come over and kinda shake his head sadly. But it was heartbreaking to let him down, even just a little.) This got particularly challenging toward the top of the house, which necessitated holding The Spackelizer at or above eye-level and cranking till your arm was about to fall off. Goodtimes.

smooooooooove
smooooooooove

Nevertheless, despite a challenging day, we ended up with a smooth house inside and out. And one more day to go!


Day Five: dedication
TGIF! There was still plenty to do on this last day, including decorating the house with pipecleaner flowers and construction paper chains. Festive, without overdoing it.

decorating Nosta's house
decorating Nosta´s house

We knew it was a special day when our lunch contained meat in addition to the usual vegetable/curry stew. Deluxe!

photo by Hanine
this beautiful photo was taken by Hanine

And around us, everyone was getting washed and dressed and ready for the party.

I'll spend a bit more time covering the dedication ceremony in my next post (about the WHY). It was a moving celebration of gratitude and possibility. A phenomenal way to endcap the week's hard work.

the community blesses the hous
the community blesses the house

At the end of the week, we left behind two houses meant to last 25 years or more. I've done plenty of volunteer projects in my lifetime, and most of them provided some form of do-goodery gratification. But this was satisfying in a completely different way. Stay tuned for further reflection on the women and their families, whose lives will be changed when they move into these houses.

Meanwhile, what do you plan to accomplish with YOUR next five days?

Habitat team, photo by Phil Lampron

 

RELATED LINKS:
* view the complete set of photos of our Habitat build
* Photo Friday: thankful for...
* browse
all Mozambique posts
* browse all photos from
Mozambique and South Africa

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
30 November 2012
Photo Friday: thankful for...

On the heels of last week's American Thanksgiving, I thought I'd share this photo from our Moz trip that encapsulates the concept of thanks.

Felixmina and Nosta celebrate
Felixmina and Nosta celebrate their new homes

I took this during the dedication ceremony for the two houses we'd built, which included lots of singing and dancing and words of thanks from Nosta and Felixmina. When was the last time you did something at work/home/anywhere that made someone this joyfully appreciative?

This helps remind me of all I'm thankful for, especially as we barrel through the hectic holiday season.

More-more-more Moz to come, I promise! I am making some progress in wading through the mountain of pics and will be sharing more in the coming weeks.

Meanwhile, check out the fabulous travel snaps at Delicious Baby's Photo Friday.


RELATED LINKS:
* A love note to Team Pedro
* browse all Mozambique posts
* browse all photos from Mozambique and South Africa

Posted by sonia at 12:00 AM | Link | 0 comments
19 November 2012
A love note to Team Pedro

Before I get into the what (the actual work we did) and the why (the families of Chipenhe village) I wanted to spend a bit of time on the who.

I'm the first to admit that I'm not a "group" person. The idea of getting tossed together with a bunch of random strangers, spending all-day-every-day with these people, engaging in group-think and group-speak... it chafes my nonconformist streak and tends to make me want to run screaming from the room. More than anything else about this trip -- what will we eat? will there be running water? what to pack? -- this group-thing was the biggest unknown factor weighing on my brain.

And then this happened.

Team Pedro works hard and plays hard
Team Pedro works hard and plays hard

na-na-ni-na-naoooo
na-na-ni-na-naoooo

grrrrrrlpower!
grrrrrrlpower!


our fearless team leader LisaTo say I was pleasantly surprised by our incredible team is the understatement of the year. To be fair, this group was mostly hand-picked by a superlative team leader Lisa, so I shouldn't have been so stunned at how well we all got along. And it takes a special group of people to volunteer their vacation time to fly halfway around the world and work on a project like this. But I've done a bit of casual research on the topic, and this level of bonding seems above-par even for Habitat trips. This was more than simple camaraderie-in-the-wilderness. By the end of the first day, we'd figured out each others' strengths & weaknesses, there was an almost palpable care and compassion for everyone's well-being, and we were joking and laughing together like lifelong friends. Corporate managers would KILL for a textbook high-performance team like this!

Master Mason PedroThe one unfortunate circumstance of our worksite configuration was that the two houses we built were kinda far apart. On the first day we randomly separated into two teams of seven; our group stayed with Master Mason Pedro, and the other group went with Master Mason Lucas. The idea was that maybe we'd shuffle around and mix things up as the week went on. But it became clear by the end of Day 1 that not only were we each invested in building "our house" for Nosta, we all wanted to cross the finish line together, as Team Pedro.

 

And so, without further ado... Team Pedro:

 

George

George never has any fun
classic Giorgio speak English, man

A big man with a big heart, and one of the most effortlessly funny people I have ever met. The village ladies loooooooooooooved them some Big Poppa. And he's a foodie blogger to boot! I lurve this man.


Hanine
Hanine snaps another brilliant photo
you could almost put her in your pocket welcome to the gun show

So much grace in such a small package! One of the few non-Americans on the team, she's a Lebanese fashion designer and entrepreneur, and a gifted artist. She got the most amazing people-pics of the beautiful people of Chipengue. And you can already hear the wheels turning about how we're going to work in a trip to Beirut to visit her as soon as we can.


Lacye

Lovely Lacye
Lacye with Nosta´s kids heyyyyyy!

I have to fess up to completely misjudging this girl as a high-maintenance diva. Nothing could be further from the truth! She's hardworking, smart, and compassionate, and hilariously sassy-funny. Girl's got grit. I can still hear her Southern "heyyyyyyy!" echoing in my ears.

   

The day Lacye MacGyver'd this ramp so we could wheelbarrow-race a ton of sand onto the floor of the house... a total classic, and one of my favorite worksite moments.


Sean & Inger 
twooo wuvvvv f'reals

Sean rocks the massa
Inger builds a sandcastle
Mark and Inger <3

Definitely our peeps. I was so touched by their openness and honesty. These are genuinely good-to-the-core folks. On our last van ride from the work site back to the lodge, Inger bust out with this amazing heartfelt speech about how working with us had made her a better person, and my eyes still instantly well up just thinking about it. Sean's construction experience (and subsequent bromance with Pedro) helped the rest of us make the transition from bumbling computer jockeys to slightly-less-bumbling worker bees.


Sara
Sara has the Best.Hair.Ever.

worksite chic

Our Habitat "handler" and translator, a bookkeeper in Maputo by day. I have never seen a bookkeeper with cooler hair, and probably never will. She worked harder than the rest of us combined, and pushed us to do our absolute best every day. Most importantly, she taught us all how to properly execute the Mozambican version of "oh no you di'int!" aka "na-na-ni-na-NAO!"

practicing our nao

Apologies to the rest of our awesomesauce team, I don't mean to shortshrift ya. George did a much more egalitarian job of describing everyone in his last post. Rounding out the magnificence, we have...

The inspiring mother-daughter duo Kristin & Stef
Kristin Stef

Ironwoman Peg
Peg

Nurse Maureen
Maureen

Redneck Dave
Dave

Princess Philippe
Philippe

And our Habitat wrangler, the indomitable Sylvia
Sylvia

I miss you all! When can we have a reunion??? I'll bring a case of real-sugar Coke!

PS. Of course Mark was a part of this team, too. Hopefully y'all know how I feel about him by now. :) There will be plenty more pics of him working and interacting with the kids, in future posts to come!


RELATED LINKS:
* view the rest of the pics of the team
* view all Africa pics (a work in progress)
* browse all Mozambique posts
* PhotoFriday: Kruger safari
* Africa Always Wins

 

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09 November 2012
PhotoFriday: Kruger Safari

take the long way home
take the long way home

As I alluded to in my last post, our Africa trip was not all hard work and grappling with serious issues. There was serious fun, too! At the start of the trip we managed to fit in a one-day safari to Kruger National Park, in South Africa.

canoodling zebras
canoodling zebras

Despite the frigid cold and pelting rain (part of the charm of traveling in an open vehicle) we managed to see a lot of cool stuff, including four of The Big Five* and lots of other fascinating flora & fauna. .

trotting warthogs 
trotting warthogs!

Our guide Sibusiso was an absolute expert at spotting random stuff from incredible distances, and seemed to really enjoy sharing his knowledge even with just the two of us huddled under blankets in the back of the enormous jeep

spotting rare leopard spots
spotting rare leopard spots
(if you squint hard you'll either see a spaceship or one of its blue eyes peeking out of the foliage)

a pachyderm family affair
a pachyderm family affair


* The Big Five:
1. elephant
2. rhino
3. water buffalo
4. lion
5. leopard

We saw everything but lions, which apparently prefer not to come out in the pelting rain. Smart cats.

 one of several entrances

For more fabulous travel snaps, check out DeliciousBaby's Photo Friday. And there are plenty more safari pics where these came from.

RELATED LINKS:
* browse
all Mozambique posts
* browse all Kruger pics

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